Rising above the Kazakh steppe – a vast plain so flat that the horizon appears to run in a perfectly straight line – Astana has few hills, forests or other natural features to obstruct the view. However, the city itself is far from understated. Giant pyramids, sweeping towers, a 150-meter-tall tent and one of Central Asia’s largest mosques highlight the flat landscape, giving the capital a rather theatrical appearance.
This is largely due to the fact that modern Astana is a young capital. It became the capital of Kazakhstan, succeeding Almaty, in 1997, when it was still a relatively small northern city known as Akmola. What followed was an extensive building program – involving architects from all over the world – which transformed the northern steppe city into the political and administrative center it is today.
The result is a city of striking contrasts. Spend the morning taking in the ambitious architecture, the afternoon strolling along the Yesil River, and the evening eating horse sausage in a hidden cocktail bar. There’s a lot here that’s polished and monumental, but some of the best experiences are considerably more ordinary.
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Things to do
Beautiful blue and white dome of the Nursultan Mosque.
(Image credit: Avantika Chaturvedi)
The best place to understand Astana’s architectural excess is Nurzhol Boulevard, the ceremonial center of the modern city. A wide 2.5 km pedestrian axis runs between the Khan Shatyr shopping center and the Ak Orda presidential palace, passing some of Astana’s most recognizable buildings along the way.
A walk along the boulevard quickly reveals landmarks: the Presidential Palace, the vast headquarters of government ministries and the distinctive Northern Lights Towers, a trio of curved blue-green glass skyscrapers that appear to lean towards each other. The Baiterek Tower stands roughly in the middle, its golden sphere visible from much of the surrounding city. With an observation deck 97 meters above the ground open to visitors, it is the central part of the city, inspired by the Kazakh legend of the tree of life and the mythical bird Samruk.
At the end of the boulevard it is difficult not to notice Khan Shatyr. Norman Foster’s 150-metre tall structure looks like a giant translucent tent and is officially the world’s largest tent-shaped building. Inside, however, the concept is much less exotic. It is a shopping and entertainment center with shops, restaurants, cinemas and an indoor entertainment area.
Here you will also find the Sky Beach Club: an indoor beach with imported Maldivian sand, palm trees and warm water. This is a strange, but rather pleasant response to the climate of Astana. In a city where winter temperatures can plummet to terrifying levels, the idea of going to the beach without going outside is hard to argue with. Admission to Sky Beach is expensive, so unless you’re desperate for tropical temperatures in the middle of the steppe, it may be enough to admire the architecture and move on.
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For a more local scene, head to the Yesil River. The promenades on both banks are some of the most pleasant places for walking and cycling in the city, surrounded by many coffee, bean and ice cream shops. The Atyrau Bridge, a pedestrian and bicycle bridge built as a gift to the Atyrau region for the capital’s 20th anniversary, connects the two sides with a striking sturgeon-inspired structure that references the Atyrau region’s Caspian fishing heritage. In summer, the river also becomes a cooling spot for local residents. City Beach is a designated swimming area in Central Park and fills up quickly on warm days.
To once again be reminded of the scale of the new Astana, visit the Nursultan Mosque. It is the largest mosque in Central Asia, opening in 2022, with four 130-meter minarets surrounding a huge blue and white dome capable of accommodating more than 30,000 worshipers. One of the minarets has an elevator to observation platforms at an altitude of 90 and 110 meters, from where an unusually good view of the city opens.
Across the river, Saryarka, one of the old districts, is a useful antidote to the monumentality of the new capital. The historic center has an old square, fountains and a collection of low-rise buildings, including several former merchant houses, such as the Matvey Kubrin house, built in the early 20th century and now occupied by a supermarket. Other buildings associated with the Kubrin family were converted for various purposes, and their preservation provides a glimpse into the trading city that existed here before Astana became the capital.
The Holy Assumption Cathedral, one of the city’s main Russian Orthodox landmarks, is another reminder of Astana’s multi-layered identity, bringing a very different architectural vocabulary to the streets. Meanwhile, the Wall of Peace is a small but interesting monument to the city’s role as a platform for international religious and diplomatic dialogue. Neither requires hours of sightseeing, but both help discredit the idea that Astana is just a city of shiny new buildings.
Burabay National Park is approximately three hours away by train.
(Image credit: Avantika Chaturvedi)
The outskirts of Astana are much greener than the city itself. About three hours away by train, Burabay National Park makes an easy day trip. Take an early train to Borovoe station and order a taxi to take you around the park. The landscape is changing quickly: the flat steppe around Astana is being replaced by pine forests, granite hills and clear lakes.
Climb Bolektau Peak for views of Burabay and Chebache Lakes, take a boat ride on Lake Burabay, or rent a bike to explore the area’s extensive cycling trails. In summer, Chebachye is also a popular swimming spot.
It’s worth making several stops a day. The Akmaral Reindeer Farm collects naturally shed antlers for use in traditional medicine, while the Sokolov Cheese Farm produces some 38 varieties using Italian technology using wheels of mature cheeses, including 31-month Montasio aged on wooden racks in a cool warehouse.
For lunch or breakfast, the signature Tary Café breakfast is especially good, including katlam, puff pastry stuffed with cheese, kazy horse meat sausage, eggs, ayran cheese sauce and tea made from jide or sucker berries. The café overlooks the lake and pine forest, making it a particularly pleasant place to have lunch after arriving by train.
Food and drink
Qazaq Gourmet is a good introduction to modern Kazakh cuisine.
(Image credit: Avantika Chaturvedi)
Astana has a growing number of restaurants and bars, although it is still significantly smaller than Almaty. Qazaq Gourmet is a good introduction to modern Kazakh cuisine in a sophisticated setting with wine pairing. The restaurant’s menu combines traditional recipes from across Kazakhstan with modern techniques, and the 11-course Omir tasting menu uses individual dishes to explore different aspects of Kazakhstan’s culinary and cultural traditions.
Line Brew has been on the Astana food scene since 1997 and is best known for its home-brewed beers, which range from simple premium lagers to fruitier varieties of pomegranate, raspberry and lime, strawberry and blackcurrant. Its extensive menu ranges from escargots Bourguignon to steaks and dry-aged beef.
When it comes to cocktails, Temple Bar is much more secretive. There’s no obvious sign, and the entrance looks so much like a janitor’s closet that you wonder if you’ve taken a wrong turn. Once inside, red velvet curtains open into a dim living room-like space with mismatched sofas and lamps. There is no cocktail menu. Instead, the bartender asks what kind of liquor you like, what flavor you want, and how strong you want the drink to be. Ask for something hot and sour with tequila, and you’ll end up with a clarified coriander cocktail that’s suspiciously close to what you wanted. The bar also serves jaya, made from salted, jerked, smoked or dried horsemeat. Astana seems quite happy with being futuristic and traditional at the same time.
Where to stay
The Hilton Garden Inn is a great base for exploring the capital.
(Image credit: Hilton Garden Inn)
The Hilton Garden Inn Astana is a convenient base for your visit to the capital of Kazakhstan. It’s centrally located, making it relatively easy to get to the main attractions, and its rooms and service offer a level of comfort that feels more expensive than the prices suggest. Russian and Turkish steam rooms are a pleasant place where you can relax after a day of covering the vast distances of Astana.
Avantika was a guest Visit Astana And Visit Akmola.
